Disclaimer: We in no way offer legal advice, and any thoughts contained in this article are nothing more than the opinion of the author based on personal experience.
So you like watches:
Collecting watches is an ever-growing hobby that many people enjoy, and there’s a lot of fun to be had with watches. This guide is made to help navigate the process of buying second hand watches, which can be a great way to get into the hobby of collecting watches, but it doesn’t come without its risks. The secondary market- also known as the gray market sometimes with watches- can be a place for great deals and terrible deals alike when it comes to watches. The key when shopping on any platform is knowing what to look for. In this article, I’ll talk about some of the experiences that I’ve had with shopping for second hand watches, and hopefully you can learn from them. Please keep in mind that while the things identified in this article can help to identify a fake, there’s really no 100% foolproof way to ensure that a watch you’re buying is authentic other than by buying directly from authorized dealers of the brand.
First things first – authenticity:
The first thing to make sure of when looking at watches on any platform is authenticity. There are a few ways to make sure of this.
Box and papers: when watches are first bought, they come with a couple of things that make the watch a full set. Usually this includes a watch box (there’s usually an inner and an outer box), warranty information, which include warranty information about the watch, the watch manual, which is sometimes included in the same booklet as the warranty information, and a warranty card, which is filled out by the watch dealer and dated for the date of purchase when the watch is bought. Sometimes watches have a hang tag as well, which is similar to a tag that comes on clothes, and it just has the watches price information and a barcode. If a watch has all of these things with it, it’s considered a ‘full set’ or ‘full kit.’ When looking for a second hand watch, a full set is definitely more desirable, as fakes often don’t include all of these things at all, or there are telltale signs of fake boxes and papers. One of these fake identifiers is either an inaccurately filled out warranty card, or warranty cards that are left blank. I will say that I’ve bought watches that I was completely sure of authenticity that have not had the warranty card filled out, but a blank warranty card can be a sign of a fake, especially if other red flags are present. A way to tell if a warranty card is not correctly filled out is by ensuring that the serial number on the warranty card is the same as the one on the watch itself. If these don’t match, you can pretty much be sure that either the watch or the warranty card is a fake, and I would definitely avoid buying a watch with an inaccurate warranty card. When looking at the watch booklet and box of a watch, I would recommend looking at unboxing videos of a watch, or other pictures of verified authentic listings of a watch from the same brand to familiarize yourself with the box and papers included with the watch.
It’s a bit trickier to ensure that you’re getting an authentic watch without at least a partial set, so when possible, go for a full set. That being said, there are definitely still watches that are authentic that are sold as the watch only, without any of the original ‘accessories.’ In cases like this, always look for sellers with good feedback on whatever platform you’re on, and make sure you look closely at pictures of the watch that are posted. Look for things like imperfections on the dial, dust under the crystal, or other signs of poor quality control, because while there are definitely issues with quality control within watch companies, the quality standard is usually higher than that of low-grade replicas. It’s also important to ensure that the watch functions as it should. Familiarize yourself with the watch you’re considering buying through videos and pictures that are available online, and make sure the exact watch you’re looking at buying works as it should. For example, if a watch is a chronograph with a 1/10th of a second measure, ask for a video of the watch from the seller, with them starting, stopping and resetting the chronograph to ensure that it functions as an authentic watch should. There are other things that you can do to make sure a watch you’re buying is legit, but usually the seller and the pictures they post of the watch can give you a pretty good gauge about the authenticity of a watch. To be safe, it’s always good to look at authentication guides online, and ask an expert to make sure you don’t spend your money on a fake or frankenwatch.
Remember, if something seems too good to be true, it probably is. There are also options for authentication services through platforms like Ebay, StockX and other online retailers that will physically check and authenticate a watch before it gets to you to add peace of mind, though these services often add some cost to the purchase of a watch, which is pretty much always worth it when it comes to watches that are either relatively expensive, or are from well known brands that are more frequently replicated than others.
How Used is Used:
Watches are meant to be worn, so it’s only natural that if you’re buying a second hand watch, it’s going to have marks and other signs of wear. There is a difference between a lightly worn watch with what we call ‘desk diving marks,’ which are small scratches that inevitably happen on watches, especially those with bracelets, as they scrape against somebody’s laptop or desk during normal wear, and a watch that somebody used every day as a ‘beater,’ with noticeable scratches throughout the watch, showing more visible wear. Everyone has their own tolerance to the level of use on a watch, but it’s important to understand your tolerance, and make sure that you look closely at pictures of a watch to see what kind of abuse it’s been through.
Service History Unknown:
This is a phrase that you will very frequently see when buying watches on the secondary market. If you’re new to watches, all watches, especially mechanical watches that are either automatic or hand wound need to be periodically serviced (typically every 5-10 years at a minimum) to ensure that they stay in good working condition, because just like a car engine, they have gears that wear overtime, and lubricating oils that need to be replaced to ensure that the watch keeps time accurately, and can last a long time. One of the main problems with buying watches from other people is that they frequently will either not know the service history, or they will have not serviced the watch at all, which could mean that a service, or at least a checkup may be necessary when you get the watch. If the service history of a watch is unknown, it’s important to make sure that the watch is keeping good time, and that everything is functioning right on the watch, especially with watches that have complications such as chronographs that could cause extra wear on the movement if those are overused. It’s also a good idea to understand what the cost would be for a service on the watch you’re looking at, just in case it does need a service. Whether you have a watchmaker you know near you, or you want to send the watch into the official service center of the brand is entirely up to you, but no one wants to think they’re getting a good deal on a watch by getting it for $500, and then finding out it needs another $500 for a service. Official service prices can usually be found on the company’s website.
No Stupid Questions:
When you’re looking at spending your money on something, especially one that can be as expensive as some watches, it’s important to know exactly what you’re getting, which can be difficult when you’re buying something online. That’s why we recommend asking questions, and lots of them if you have to. You may think you’re annoying the seller, but getting all the key details before buying something can be the difference between getting scammed and ending up with a timepiece you can enjoy for the rest of your life. Don’t be afraid to ask any question you may have about the watch, politely we may add, to make sure you know all the information possible before you buy.
Conclusion:
At the end of the day, buying second hand watches has an inherent risk, and if you want to mitigate that risk, it’s important to know what to look for, and ensure you get all the information possible before buying. It’s not bad to be skeptical about something, and if you don’t feel right about a purchase, it’s probably best to save your money and hold out for something you feel really good about. We’re sure we’ve missed plenty of tips in this article, so if you have other tips or things to look for, please leave a comment to help us and others!
